Fruit School

Lesson 9

Pineapple

A colonial status symbol with a wild name in every language.

The pineapple is a fruit of contradictions. It looks armored but is sweet inside. It was once the most expensive fruit in the world, rented by the hour. And almost every language on Earth calls it some version of “ananas,” except English.

The most expensive fruit in history

The pineapple originated in the lowlands of South America, likely in the area between southern Brazil and Paraguay. The Tupi and Guaraní peoples cultivated it for centuries before Columbus encountered it on Guadeloupe in 1493. He brought one back to Spain, where it astonished the court.

European greenhouses couldn’t reliably grow pineapples until the late 1600s. Before that, each pineapple that arrived by ship was a treasure: most rotted during the weeks-long voyage. A single pineapple could cost the equivalent of $8,000 in today’s money.

In 18th-century England, you could rent a pineapple for a dinner party. You wouldn’t eat it, just display it as a centerpiece to signal wealth and worldliness. Pineapple motifs appeared on gates, fountains, and buildings. The Dunmore Pineapple in Scotland is a 14-meter-tall stone pineapple built as a garden folly in 1761.

The pineapple became a symbol of hospitality in colonial America, which is why you still see pineapple motifs on door knockers, bedspreads, and hotel logos.

The “ananas” problem

In Tupi, the pineapple was called nanas, meaning “excellent fruit.” Portuguese colonists adopted it as ananás. From there, it became ananas in French, German, Dutch, Italian, Russian, Arabic, Turkish, Hindi, Japanese, and dozens more languages.

English went its own way. Early English explorers thought the fruit looked like a pine cone (which was originally called a “pineapple”). So they called the fruit a “pineapple” and renamed the pine cone. Spanish also diverged, calling it piña (also meaning pine cone).

This makes “pineapple” one of the most linguistically isolated fruit names in the world.

Ground fruit, not tree fruit

Pineapples don’t grow on trees. They grow from a rosette of stiff leaves at ground level. Each plant produces one pineapple at a time, growing from the center of the rosette on a stout stalk. The fruit is actually a coalesced cluster of berries, fused around a central core.

A pineapple takes 18 to 24 months to mature. Commercial growers use ethylene gas to synchronize flowering across a field, which ensures a uniform harvest. Each plant produces two or three harvests (called “ratoon” crops) before being replanted.

Hawaii was once the world’s pineapple capital. Dole and Del Monte built empires there. Today, almost all commercial pineapples come from Costa Rica, the Philippines, and Thailand. Hawaii produces less than 2% of the world supply.

The enzyme that eats you back

Fresh pineapple contains bromelain, a protease enzyme that breaks down proteins. When you eat pineapple, the bromelain is literally digesting the proteins in your mouth and tongue. That tingling or burning sensation is mild tissue damage. Your mouth heals quickly, but the sensation is real.

This is why fresh pineapple can’t be used in gelatin desserts: the bromelain breaks down the collagen (a protein) that makes gelatin set. Canned pineapple works because the canning process involves heat, which denatures the enzyme.

Bromelain has medical uses: it’s used as a meat tenderizer, a wound debrider, and an anti-inflammatory supplement. In some traditional practices, pineapple juice is used to tenderize tough cuts of meat.