The durian is the most polarizing fruit on Earth. To its devotees, it’s the undisputed king of fruits: creamy, complex, and transcendent. To everyone else, it smells like a dumpster in August.
The king of fruits
Durian trees grow wild and cultivated across Southeast Asia: Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, the Philippines, and Borneo. The fruit has been eaten for thousands of years. Alfred Russel Wallace, who independently conceived the theory of natural selection, wrote in 1856 that the durian was “worth a voyage to the East to experience.”
During durian season (roughly June to August, varying by region), the fruit dominates daily life in parts of Malaysia and Thailand. Roadside stalls appear everywhere. Families make pilgrimages to orchards. Prices for premium varieties spike. In Malaysia, the phrase “when the durians fall, the sarongs rise” is a cheeky reference to durian season’s reputation as a time of indulgence.
Durian is the national fruit of both Malaysia and Singapore (though Singapore also bans it from its metro system).
The smell
Researchers have identified over 44 volatile organic compounds in durian’s aroma, including sulfur compounds (shared with cooked onions, garlic, and skunk spray), esters (shared with fruits and flowers), and ketones. The combination is unique in the plant kingdom.
The specific compound most responsible for durian’s distinctive smell is ethanethiol, one of the smelliest chemicals known to science. It’s the same compound added to natural gas so you can detect leaks.
Why do some people love it? Taste and smell preferences are partly genetic (similar to how some people taste soap in cilantro) and partly cultural. People who grow up eating durian typically love it. First-time adult tasters often can’t get past the smell to discover the rich, custard-like flavor underneath.
Banned but booming
“No durians” signs appear in hotels, airports, trains, buses, and ride-share cars across Southeast Asia. The smell permeates enclosed spaces and lingers for days. Some airlines ban it from checked luggage.
Despite the bans, the durian trade is enormous and growing. China’s appetite for durian has transformed the economics of the fruit. Thailand exports over $4 billion worth of durian annually, mostly to China. Malaysian durian farmers have become wealthy as Chinese demand drives prices up. Whole mountains in Malaysia are being deforested to plant durian orchards, raising environmental concerns.
A single Musang King durian can sell for $50 or more. At auction, exceptional specimens have fetched thousands of dollars.
Musang King and the cult of cultivars
Not all durians are alike. Malaysia alone has over 200 registered cultivars, each with a D-number. The most famous:
Musang King (D197): thick, creamy, bittersweet flesh with a deep golden color. Considered the finest eating durian by many connoisseurs. The name means “cat king,” after the civet cats that love it.
D24: an older, milder variety with a lighter color and less intense flavor. A good starting point for newcomers.
Monthong (“golden pillow”): Thailand’s most exported variety, bred for mild flavor and large size. Malaysian durian snobs consider it bland.
Durian is eaten fresh, frozen, blended into smoothies, baked into puff pastries, made into candy and ice cream, and cooked into savory dishes. In Indonesia, tempoyak is fermented durian paste used as a condiment.
The folk belief that eating durian while drinking alcohol can be fatal is widespread but not supported by strong evidence. Small studies suggest durian may inhibit aldehyde dehydrogenase, an enzyme that helps metabolize alcohol, which could theoretically intensify alcohol’s effects. The combination is likely uncomfortable rather than dangerous, but many people in Southeast Asia take the warning seriously.